The taste of others
Maraîchers, breeders, fishermen, but also beekeepers, olive growers, cutlery, ceramicists, potters... The multi-star chef worships the producers and artisans who supply him with food and utensils at the base of his culinary art. Arnaud Donckele gives them thanks every day. He is responsible for « Chefs in Saint-Tropez celebrate regional producers and know-how ». An event that gathers all this beautiful world in the Lice market, every beginning of May since 2021, for three days « dynamic, festive and happy! »
« My cuisine is the expression of my producers, breeders, fishermen. Without them, I'm nothing. » Things have the merit of being clear. He who shows modestly his gratitude to these women and men who provide him with the essential material for the exercise of his culinary art is none other than the multistar chef – including twice three Michelin stars in the Hôtels Cheval blanc, La Vague d'or, in Saint-Tropez, and Plenitude, in Paris – Arnaud Donckele. Today at the head of nine restaurants, this « Grandson of peasants » recognizes that he no longer wishes to go as far as he wishes to meet all these professionals in the land, livestock or fishing, but claims to have conveyed this necessity, and this privilege, to all his chiefs and deputy heads: « All go to their meetings, pick vegetables in the early morning, understand the work of a fisherman, talk with a farmer... The first fruits of a dish begin feet in the land or on the sea. » It is therefore quite naturally that Arnaud Donckele was involved in the event « Chefs in Saint-Tropez celebrate regional producers and know-how », of which 6e edition will take place in May 2026. Les Cuisiniers de France partners.
The Place des Lices market
It didn't happen in a day. Nine years ago, managers of the Tropezian hotels wanted to energize the city around a gastronomic event and opened up to the chef of La Vague d'or. Arnaud Donckele cogita, not inclined to an umpteenth gastronomic festival as it already exists in several cities. « I thought of the market of the Place des Lices, very popular and very popular in Saint-Tropez, which gathers marketers, but also artisans, beekeepers, olive growers, herbalists, potters... We had to use the strike force of this market. », he remembers. At the same time, he reflects on the dismay that producers had entrusted to him in the face of the excessive financial burdens (rental of stands, accommodation...) for their presence at such events. It had to change! Idea gently mitonnes: pay tribute to all these professionals from five departments of the Provence-Alpes-Côte-d的Azur region by bringing them together with chefs, provençaux, but also from all over France, for three days of conviviality, sharing and partying on the market of the Place des Lices.
Everything is righteous
Thanks to the support of the town hall, hotels, patrons and sponsors, the event houses producers and artisans free of charge in a luxury campsite. « Most of them never offer themselves a holiday, they are allowed this holiday moment. As for the chefs, who are always busy, they are there to pay tribute to them, meet them, discover the desireability of all the products present, but also to relax and enjoy. Everything is righteous », explains Arnaud Donckele. The first edition was held in May 2021... In the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. « We had to move away from the original concept and fall back on a simplified version. Pascale Perez, the event's outstanding organizer, magnified this simplicity, wooden boards and trestles, jute canvases... And then we realized that that was what we had to do! Keep this authentic and sincere side! »Remember the chief. Since then, the mayonnaise has taken and continued: the 2025 edition of the « Chefs in Saint-Tropez celebrate regional producers and know-how » welcomed more than 100 producers and artisans, as many chefs and 160,000 visitors.
Dynamic and authentic
A success that the chef elected best chef in the world by his peers in 2018 (classification « The 100 leaders », 2019 edition) especially does not attribute : « I am at the initiative of the idea, but, through their phenomenal investment, Pascale Perez, Tom Carbonnel and many others, have made this project a reality. My strength is creation, but they and a whole collective of local producers, such as Loïc de Salneuve, and provencal chefs, such as Vincent Maillard, Éric Canino, Sylvain Humbert, Philippe Colinet..., have had the kindness and determination to believe in this vision. » The event has since created its association co-chaired by Vincent Maillard ( chef des cuisines Lily of the Valley, La Croix-Valmer) and Sidney Biasotto (potatist of the Seed Plantation, Grimaud). Arnaud Donckele is the Honorary President: « I remain present and support if necessary. But I have complete confidence in them. I also accompany Pascale Pérez for the search for sponsors. We are at a crossroads: not to lose momentum while remaining authentic. »
The simplicity that gives emotion
Authenticity, exactly. Daughter of market gardening, grandchild of breeders, son of charcutier-traiteur, the ten star cook keeps a « deep respect for the land, for breeding » and his grandparents who harvested, processed and kept the products of their farm. « My grandmother made eggs every morning, listening to La Valise RTL, for the dozen people on the farm. », he remembers. This authenticity, he also meets in the French bistronomy: « This kitchen that gives passion to simple and emotionally intense things like a pot-au-feu, a crusty pâté, a stuffed cabbage... Bruno Doucet, David Rathberger... I wonder if they're the greatest cooks? » He, the prince of sauce, has, over time and through his complicit relations with his producers, forged a strong and trusting bond. In contrast to many other cooks, it is the quality, the delicacy and, again, the authenticity of the products that will come, like a condiment, to accompany the sauce, this « assembly of perfumes »the one that takes time, the one that is « soul of a dish ». He explains: « The flesh of a lobster, for example, will bring its sensuality, its freshness and will put an organ point to the sauce. »
Long live the next generation
As the 50s approached, the conductor orchestrated more than 250 cooks enthusiastically for the new generation. « These young people are stronger than us! Many of them arrive with a baccalaureate and often graduate studies. Studies learn reflection. It's changing the deal! I stopped at CAP. We were educated to the values of Escoffier, a solfege that forced us. My son, for example, cooks pasta on electric plates in his studio! I am surrounded by beautiful souls and, I insist, the most beautiful cuisine is that of affect! »Arnaud Donckele. His praises apply of course to the young generation of producers, breeders, fishermen and artisans.
« Today we find products that the elders would not have done the wrong to cultivate. This generation has respect for the land, the environment, animal welfare. She is in love with a violin zucchini and can offer up to 25 carrot varieties! These young people are inhabited! » He cites the vegetables of Sidney Biasotto or Yann Ménard, the olive oils of Eric Barnéoud, Karim Djekhar, the knives of Thomas Raffy... And so many others. Event « Chefs in Saint-Tropez celebrate regional producers and know-how » is indeed a tribute to all these professionals invested by their passion and guided by true convictions. Mauro Colagreco, the star-sorted chef of the Mirazur in Menton, is the sponsor of this 6e edition. Rendezvous on May 2, 3 and 4 in Saint-Tropez!
Original recipes
d-Arnaud Donckele
From his 10th birthday, he had devoured the works of the great cooks – Guérard, Bardet, Chapel, Troisgros... – who were followed in this emblematic collection of Robert Laffont, « The original recipes of... ». Arnaud Donckele, in turn, became one of the most prestigious chefs today, and folded into exercise with a mixture of evident joy and pride. Over the course of a hundred recipes, from the bases (bouillons, oils, juices...) to the desserts (wonderful plumbing ice cream) to the vegetal ones (omelette to egg benches), the iodized ones (daurad gravlax, brocoletti, grapefruit), and the meats (meurette beef pear), the multistarred repeats it in the envi: « The important thing is not to relax, but to comfort ». For him, the technique ensures a certain consistency, but the best of all the recipes is that made « with the heart ».
The simple happiness of cooking, Robert Laffont, 2025, 24,90 €
