Tom Meyer, the cook

First of all, a great boost for the prestige of our Azurean hoteliers, when, in 1922, Adlai Stevenson and his violinist of husband, celebrating their wedding at the Beaulieu Reserve, gave up his table – already decorated with two stars! – to go to the hinterland and picnic among the goats in the shade of the old stones of Eze, from these villages abandoned from the hinterland. Seduced by the site, the couple had built a Provencal mansion to take

their ease, up to their immense fortune. Only remains to Robert Wolff, third in this hotel nasty, to buy the home after the last World War.

When, in 1953, became a luxury hotel and restaurant with swimming pool and ad hoc gardens, Mr Wolff (to be added to the « Wolf » In English to one « F » near) Inauguration to the Gold Goat sign... The goat and Mr Wolf, whose unthinkable love story is crowned with a star,

in 1956, for the « Mediterranean fragrance in timbale » but which will be sold in 1967. And this is our goat put to the stake by Bibendum, like that of Monsieur Seguin, for a decade; when a rustic « Chew gratin » Brings him revenge, worshiping his fleece. Macaroon held until 2000, a second coming to greet the Ligurian and raced cuisine of Jean-Marc Delacourt (MOF 1991). He succeeds Philippe Labbé, author of a kitchen of high contrasts that passed the hand in 2009 to Fabrice Vulin, after a flash passage and noticed by Didier Eléna. Ronan Ker-varrec's turn, his second, to hold the helm. Then, it was the arrival of Arnaud Faye (MOF 2018), taking over in 2017, asserting with the brilliance that we know. As for spring 2024, Tom Meyer took over the torch and confirmed a quarter century of two stars.

Starry 2022

In front of the bay window of the restaurant room, the Goat with the golden fleece, suspended between sky and sea, loving all eyes. On the edge of a pic, difficult to leave her eyes; imagining, that at any moment, it can reach, from a leap, the Mediterranean, 400 meters below and make us « false leap» fainting infinity. There's a great breath of freedom in this allegory.

Like Tom Meyer, having so far fixed no barriers to his horizon; aimed at infinity. It's that there's chamois agility in this cook! Overcoming, in a rock-to-rock course (Tattinger, MOF), looking for the scarce air of the peaks, where only great ambitions survive.

Although far from this mineral world, it is nevertheless « Granite » inserted in the Eclore group of Stéphane Manigold (Paris 1), which was identified.

Success, engraved in the « Granite »

For the gastronomic chronicle no need for a long view to comment on his high-volt cuisine. The gratin of the stoves follows, in cordate; and the clients warned shoes the crampons to get there a table.

This while Tom Meyer does « Unscrew » not a iota, continuing his ascent crowned with a star in 2022. Zero waste, zero plastic, not like in Himalayas!, rewarding a menu in five or seven levels: « Topinadum coal, thorn-wine, poly- pod (translated by "wild rule") and coffee foam », « the turbot champagne sauce, scented with geranium » and Iconics « Gnocchi with heart flowing stuffed with shells, fennel and coriander », that will cause a lot of ink, enthusiastic praise.

Being yourself

Praise all the more deserved as the title of MOF adds to it. Success that his great encounters are not alien. What he likes to evoke, to be started by Anne-Sophie Pic:
« This position of trial leader was the most training, for allowing to go to the end in complete freedom;

« Benoît Guichard transmitted the cook's logic »

developing my intuition. The creation of a dish is a lot of feeling. A royal gift without which it would have taken me five years
more to become myself, to establish my identity ». To Benoît Violier, living with emotion what Brigitte said about him: « He was like a mathematician... an architect. Between his thought and the final materialization, he drew... he told me all the reflection that there was behind his creations, like a masterpiece. The slightest detail counted, like watering a dish. » (1)
But again, one Benedict can hide another, especially when they are both MOF! (2000 and 1993) come to Guichard (Benoît) who was his coach for the Taittinger Prize. And much more:

« It's him who a/ permit of the understand Finally my me- Third : "You know work, but you No than Bum, do not Not looking at the bottom of the products. You don't open the gizzard of poultry to know what they ate. You lack sensitivity." He will have greatly participated in my evolution, bringing this logic of the cook I missed. He channeled me, educated me to place my energy where it was necessary that it be. »

As he will convince him that Michelin is not the cook's problem. In order to establish his reputation, he must first be himself, which will certify him his other relevant coach and friend for the MOF, Arnaud Faye.

Substantific cord

Remains to define the substantive marrow of Tom Meyer's talent. An iconoclastic strand, impervious to the modes that mercilessly siphon those who follow them. Panurgism is not his cup. For example, when it comes to the madness of the casts, the 3D, in his eyes, it falls... flat. Geometry is not his thing, either. On the other hand, he appreciates abstract art through the fluidity of colours. And more precisely the arabesques, who designated Art Nouveau. Style going hand in hand with profusion. This presupposes his disagreement with the rule of three flavors:

« I resonate with the opposite, advocating complexity. When you It is important to know that 20 components make it unique. »

Criticism?
« If it's justified, I'm paying attention. But don't blame a cook that there are too many tomatoes if you don't like them! To a pastry maker that a flan lacks texture. I don't work yuzu or beeswax, pollen or honey put on all sauces. In front of a painting by Picasso, I never heard that it was a shame that he was not like Leonardo da Vinci! »

Seasoning?
« Let's say he must be at the limit of the excess. To create controlled contrasts, be it acidity or bitterness. »
First of all concerned about « trace» with the producers. Of which Mathieu Vermes (*), rhubarb collector, offering about thirty varieties.

A dish that would define, little or no, his vision? Rather an amuse-button summarising his philosophy: the mulet daurin, alias Mujou de Roco in Provençal (certified by two spots next to each eye) sought for his very textured flesh that plays on the velvety of a shrimp sauce, the aloe vera s
« What can summarize my journey, to reflect the understanding of the product: choice of the golden mule, served raw for the texture of its flesh, understanding what surrounds us with the use of the aloe vera. The concept of zero waste with a shrimp head oil... A "library" of fairly broad taste with the insertion of the little-known tagete of agriculture. So, who's calling. » That's clever. Like his talent to explain the spirit, the life, the thought of a recipe. Testifies these three to be found in the section « income ».

The oyster pearl?
« An explosive bite based on number 1 oyster of my friend Jean- Christophe Giol at the Seyne-sur-Mer. Oyster capsule seasoned with oyster sauce made with its water, lemon and ginger. A condiment with ivèche bringing vegetal and bitterness, contrasted by essential vinegar shallots in the tasting of an oyster with a stroke of white. The fine sar- rasin paste bringing crispy and toasted cereal notes». White asparagus:« A monochrome dish playing on the shades of white and yellow shades of yellow. Delicate and soft appearance, it hides its aromatic powers

Ascrouching perges embossed with lemon, mounted on a grilled pistachio paste to bring gourmet flavour; ice cream with lactic acidity thanks to white cheese, infused with honey sage to give freshness. And then a veil of scum of sprinklers, softened by coconut milk, the kosho lemon home to bring stinging and relief ».

The lisette?
« Want to work this little fish, with light fat flesh and a skin that captures the aromatic smoke. Cooked in a flame-marked broth. Cucumber filling compressed with vervein oil and cedrat to play in the courtyard of a hesitant spring salad between vegetal and bitterness. Chartreuse gel tips, bringing depth of alcohol and herbaceous notes. Linked by the hardiness of grilled Lisette heads with barbecue infused in a seasoned cream with chili, lemongrass and lots of fresh vervein at the last moment. Like a modern tiger lick ».

« There's no way my kitchen gets bored! »

Which does not risk reading the summer lunch and dinner card, certifying « a free, personal and deeply alive kitchen, not seeking to reassure, but to mark, leaving a print like a perfume that is not forgotten » and plates that are so many licked paintings. Passing through « gumberoni, rhubarb, almond, fig leaf », « fermented cherry beef, garrigue herbs », « pigeon, green pepper, mint, chocolate notes ». This invites, without transition, the desserts of Florent Margaillan, also kneaded with panache and daring: « raspberry Tulameen, verbena, camphor basil», « rhu- vanilla beards from Uganda, sake beard ».

In the chief's close guard: Luca Visentin (Alain Ducasse)***, German Arnaud*** then second at Granite*). It's his deputy turning on the three restaurants: gastro, the Remparts, the Café du Jardin. Philippe Gignoux, second of the gastro (Franck Giovannini ***) Océane-Lyne and Brice Maillet (Florent Pietravalle**Underchef and gastro assistant. Restaurant manager, excellent Yann Vayé (Bruno Cirino**) and chef-sommelier Mathieu Selier

Not to be overlooked, the Remparts. Viewed to cut the breath, but certainly not appetite for reading the card signed Luc Visentin. Who favors with talent the niche Provencal cuisine in a gastro version (dinner menu: 95 € ; tasting 125 €).

Gérard Gilbert (*)
Interview with Dana Didier, published in the Swiss magazine Figure of 27 February 2020

Article to be found in the Revue Culinaire n°956